Installing Faux Wood Or Wood Blinds Like A Pro

A Wood Blind - Ready For An Inside Mount Installation

Step 1:
Unpack the blind and installation hardware from the shipping box.
Make sure that you have:
Left & Right brackets, a middle support bracket (included if the width of the blind is more than 45"), plastic clips to snap the valance into, tilting wand, screws.
(The plastic valance clips are hard to see because they are see-through, but if you look closely, you'll notice them attached to the headrail right above the three bunched up cord ladders.)

Step 2:


Holding Brackets Installation	Supporting (Middle) Bracket Installation

Attach both the R & L brackets with screws. The best screws to use are the Robertson (square-type) ones. They stay put on the tip of your driver bit without falling off like slot or Phillips-type screws do. (It's very helpful when you have to hold the bracket in place and get the first screw in.)

You may need to pre-drill the screw holes with a small drill bit to prevent the wood frame from splitting. Depending on what size of screws you decide to use, the pre-drilling step may not be necessary. (We regularly us smaller (#6), about 1/2" long, Robertson-type metal screws without the need for pre-drilling.)
Note: The closer the screw hole to the edge of the wood, the higher the chances for the wood to split. That's where pre-drilling is a must ragardless of the screw size.

Next, attach the middle support bracket (if included). To make it easier to find the installation depth, align the support bracket's back with the back of the right or left locking brackets. Measure or eyeball how far from the sill edge the bracket needs to be in order to align its back with the back sides (window side) of both locking brackets.

As you can see, we attached the middle bracket slightly off the window center. That's because the blind had a string ladder right in the middle and the bracket would interfere with its tilting and lifting function.

Step 3:

Up And Into The Brackets!

Step 3 gets you to insert the blind into the receiving brackets. It is a good idea to snap the plastic valance clips onto the headrail beforehand. You can see one to the right from the hand holding the headrail. If you can't see it, trust me, it's there :).

Step 4:


Wood Blind - Ready to lock the right bracket. (Notice the right-sided wand tilt and draw cords controls.)	Snapping The Valance On The Plastic Holding Clips.

Just about done …
Lock both brackets at the ends of the blind. Grab the valance and snap it on the 2 or 3 plastic clips attached to the headrail.
Now, if the blind is fully stacked, pull gently on the draw cords* sideways (towards the middle of the window) while pushing the whole stack up at the same time. The clutch eases the grab on the cords and the slats start to unfold. Let them go down all the way. Test the tilting mechanism to make sure it works.
If all is in good order … YOU ARE DONE! Congratulations!

* If you happen to have the tilting mechanism that uses cords, make sure that you are pulling on the right cords when you want to lower the stacked slats :).

Wood Blinds - An Outside Mount Installation

Now, look here for a couple of pictures and a short explanation regarding an outside mount valance assembly for a 2" wood blind. In our case it's a faux wood blind for a door.


Wrap Around Return For An Outside Mount Valance Faux Wood Blinds(The metal, right-angled piece slides into the routed profile at the back of the valance and joins the return to the front valance piece. Notice the 45 deg. cuts on the ends that will form the corner.)	The Right Side Of The Valance Completely Assembled (The ends meet with factory cuts of 45 deg.)