Measuring For Blinds & Shades Plus

Assembled Side Mount Brackets - Right & Left Using Extension Metal Brackets	Assembled Side Mount Brackets - Right & Left

Step 2 :
Helpful Measuring Tips

• If you want to measure correctly, and we know you do, use a metal tape measure with easy-to-see marks for 1/16”, 1/8”, ½”, etc. Make sure you know which one is which. If you haven’t used a measuring tape before, ask somebody to help you.
• For consistency, always measure your room windows in a clock-wise fashion, one by one, from left to right. For accuracy, stay focused on the task. Especially if there are people around you, the phone or door bell rings. If you must interrupt your measuring, re-check your numbers once you come back. As much as this step sounds so obvious, we’ve seen many situations where ‘absolutely sure measurements’ were in fact easily avoidable expensive slip ups. So, take your time.
• Even if the windows look ‘exactly’ the same, measure each of them individually regardless.
• Measure the exact Width (left to right) of your windows in three different places by slowly sliding the tape measure from the top down to the middle and bottom. Write down the narrowest measurement.
• Measure the exact Height (top to bottom) of your windows in three different places by slowly sliding the tape measure from left to right. Write down the longest measurement.
  Exception:
  Use the shortest measurement for vertical blinds to avoid having the bottom of the vanes drag over a few shorter distance points between the top and bottom of the window frame.
• Write down your measurements in inches and round ‘em to the nearest 1/8” (Unless you are measuring for wood shutters where the requirements call for the nearest 1/16”.)
• Record the exact Width first. Then record the exact Height. (W x H). Use a worksheet with columns to clearly write them down. The most common blunder: It’s VERY easy to switch the two measurements. So, concentrate and keep an eye on it :).
• The finished width for inside mounts is always 1/16" to 3/8" less than your exact measurements to create the necessary operating clearance. The factory deductions thus prevent the blinds from rubbing against the window frames.
• Factory takes no deductions from your exact measurements for outside mount blinds.
• ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK YOUR MEASUREMENTS before sending your order form off to the factory.

Notes To Take About Measuring For Vertical Blinds

For a vertical blind to be fully functional, the 3 ½” vanes must have enough room around them to be able to rotate. In the open position, they stack at either end of the headrail. When ordering verticals, you can request a left or right stack draw cords. A center split draw cord option stacks vanes on both ends of the headrail and closes them evenly in the middle.
Since vertical blinds are the most common choice for patio doors, the draw cord is usually one way, stacking the vanes on the opposite side to the sliding door handle.

Vertical blinds mounted on the inside of a window require about 4 - 4 ½” of depth.
Anything protruding from the inside plane of the window space will interfere with the rotational function of the vanes if the depth is insufficient.
Also, when the vanes stack in an (inside mount) application, the view gets partially covered. It’s a point to think about if you are considering hanging your new verticals inside the window. 

With an outside mount, a standard overlap of about 3”- 4” creates a minimum light gap at both ends when the blind is closed.
It’s easier to add a few extra inches to be able to stack the vanes on the wall side, away from the window, maximizing the view (if there’s enough wall room past the window casing) :).

Your outside mount height measurement is the vertical distance from where you want the headrail to be (suggested 2-4” above the window or door frame) down to the length you desire. If the vanes will hang down all the way to the floor (e.g. patio doors), subtract about 1/2” for a nice clearance from the floor.

The brackets that usually come for outside mount vertical blind installations are adjustable. They slide open and close, allowing you to adjust the headrail distance from the wall or protruding sliding door handles. A simple nut and bolt tightens them in a position you want.

Vertical Blinds - Outside Mount Brackets (Bottom Two - adjustable Top Two - set stand out)	Vertical Blinds - Inside Mount Brackets

Luckily, there’s nothing challenging about this.
In fact, it’s like an outside mount measurement on … a door …instead of a wall.

Make sure your Width and Height measurements overlap the door window enough to prevent light gaps on the sides and the top and bottom. A common add-on to each side is 2” (add 4”extra to the door window width).
The height measurements usually overlap 2”-3” at both ends (add 4” – 6”extra to the door window height).

Watch out for any hardware (e.g. the door handle) that may be in the way.

When measuring for roller shades, remember that each hanging side mechanism of the roller takes up about ½”.
The rolled-out fabric is then about ½” narrower on each side than the total width of the roller. Therefore, add an extra 1” – 1 ½” to your measurements to assure good window opening coverage.

One more thing about roller shades …Unless you are planning to make your own valances to cover the roller shade at the top, order a matching valance with returns (used for an outside mount). Another option is to order a roller shade with a matching metal cassette.

TIP: Always make sure there is plenty of room for a valance or cassette and a headrail on the side the door opens towards. If the door opens flush 90 deg. towards a wall, it will open less with the blind on. The shade may hit the wall, get damaged over time, or both. To prevent this from happening, install a door stopper.

Approximate* Minimum & Flush Sill Depth Requirements
For Inside Mount Applications(*Ask the manufacturer what the exact numbers are)

Quick Tips Summary Before You Order
Here are some of the most common mistakes a customer will make when ordering.

Clash Of Colors? 
Wild colors may create a nightmare. They may clash with furniture, the paint and even the pictures on the wall.  By choosing neutral colors, you will find that no matter how many room changes you go through, your blinds will always fit your decor.
Going with BOLD colours is fine as long as it always fits the theme (or … prospective property buyers like it, too ).
ALWAYS simply ask for “swatch samples” to make sure you like the color and it matches with your home décor.

Switched Measurements?  
Oops!  Measure the Width (W) first and then the Height (H). Record each measurement separately in the corresponding column on your worksheet. Double check ALL your measurements and then submit to the order desk.

Assuming that similar-looking windows have the same measurements and are perfectly square on all sides?Measure all the windows. Measure all the sides. By doing a thorough job now helps you avoid fitting problems during an installation.

Expecting an inside mount will do without checking and asking about the minimum sill depth requirements for your choice of blinds?To eliminate the surprise of your blinds hardware sticking out like a teenager’s braces, ask for the minimum sill depth before ordering.  Check for any obstructions, mosquito screens, cranks, mullions (centre wood pieces dividing two window panes) and overhangs (if there are any).

Measure Like A Pro!Use a good quality tape measure and make sure you know where 1/16”, 1/8”, ¼” and ½” marks are on the tape. 
Measure twice and record once. Correctly. Round your measurements to the nearest 1/8th of an inch. For shutter measurements, round off to the nearest 1/16th.

Correct Measurements, Perfect Blinds And …What Else?To reach the controls over the top of a desk, fireplace, cupboard…etc., you may need to order either right or left pull cord controls or tilting mechanisms.  Look at where the blind is going and consider what the most comfortable access to the controls needs to be.

Right or left controls … or other special features?

• Do you need extra-long draw cords?
• Do you need an extra long tilt wand with your blind?
• Does the plastic or metal (your choice) bead chain on the roller shades need to be a foot or two longer so you can reach it?
• Would you be better off with a cordless option (if available)?
• Will it be easier to control the blind if it had a remote-control feature?
• Do you need metal extension brackets, some versatile plastic spacers, or cord cleats (to wind the control cords around so you keep them way from your child's reach)?

Three Versatile Spacers For Outside Mount Installations	A Spacer Used  Under  A 2" Wood Blind Bracket

The pictured spacers above are 1 1/4" x 1 1/16" x 3/8".
They are often used for outside mounts in order to compensate for a thickness of window casing.
We use them every time for an outside mount of 2" wood blind brackets on a door with a window and a frame around it.  They go below the brackets before the screws tighten the brackets to the door. This way, the brackets extend from the door surface making sure that the blind's vanes operate (tilt) freely, without rubbing against the door's window frame.